NEW YORK
Leaving any port one is always in one of those “reflective” moods
when, if it is from a home port, one thinks about family and so on.
If it is from a foreign port, then as the port disappears over the
horizon, so too, do most of the thoughts about it. One adjusts to
life at sea, going on watch, and before long, the next port is being
contemplated. Such is the life of a sailor. No sooner has one left
port, than one is looking forward to the next port, and so it goes
on.
With the war well and truly over, sealed orders were no longer the
order of the day. Even before we left Halifax, we knew that we
were bound for
New York –
about three or four days sailing. Since the ship was owned and run
by Messrs Elders and Fyffes, whilst in New York, we also knew
that we would come under the agency of the
United Fruit Company of that City. We
wondered if at last, we might be going to see the sunny Caribbean
for a load of bananas. It was reassuring to hear, once again, the
continual splash, splash, splash, of the blades of the propeller as
they hit the water.
We finally sailed past the
Statue of Liberty,
and the notorious
Ellis Island
where countless immigrants to the USA had, over the years been
“processed”, and where many Merchant Seamen had memories of
spending time after deserting their ships in New York. Sailing on,
and further up the Hudson River, to the
Cunard Berth at Pier 90.
As a somewhat small and insignificant cargo boat, we felt a little
bit out of place in this part of the port where once the mighty trans
Atlantic ocean liners had queued up to berth. As it happened, we
had to “wait for orders” for a few days. We were more than happy
about that! It was April, and the weather was fine. Going ashore
was great. It was almost four years since I had been in New York,
and I had never been ashore in the big City. I was quite excited at
the prospect.
Unfortunately, on our first night ashore, we had a brush with the
law. Three of us were walking along one of the large Avenues not
too far from
Times Square. We saw one of those huge
(obviously) American cars that one only sees in the pictures. We
had stopped to admire it. Before we knew it, two of New York’s
Finest (although we didn’t think so at the time!) rounded us up
against the window of the nearest brightly lit large shop, and asked
us what we were doing “eying up” the auto? It didn’t take long to
convince them that we were really just a couple of awestruck kids
admiring a motorcar. I think our accents convinced them more than
did our words. Apparently, a “sizing up” motorcar on the busy
thoroughfares of New York was not, at that time, the thing to do.
However, the magic of being in such a world famous place was not
lost on us, and we enjoyed many experiences of life in the big city.
As it had been in Canada, eating ashore was always a pleasure. I
had no worries about the quality of the food that was served up as I
had in many other parts of the world. We got to quite like calling in
at a
Munson’s Diner
not too far from the dock entrance. Munson’s diner was an old
converted bus that had been fitted out as a café. I suppose it could
have been among the fore runners of the “fast food” places. Most
of the stuff served up was fried eggs, bacon, and other quick to
serve meals. On leaving, the bill was presented in the form of a bus
ticket, with numbers on each side. The cost of the meal was
represented by holes punched in the appropriate numbers – quite a
novel way of presenting the check!
At another bar we visited, not too far from the dock area, the wife
of the Italian owner brought in the most wonderful meat balls,
cooked in all sorts of spices that we hadn’t even heard of let alone
tasted. Whatever the ingredients were, they were absolutely
wonderful, and provided one had bought a couple of beers there,
they were relatively cheap. In most of the “up town” bars, every
tenth glass of beer was free! I was not a great beer drinker, but
most of the blokes reckoned that the American beer was “not up to
much” (or words to that effect!) Another “must see” place was
Jack Dempsey’s Bar
somewhere near Times Square. Apparently, the great man himself
put in personal appearances every now and then, and boxing fans
from all over the world just wanted to meet him, or just even say
they had seen him. We did find the bar, but meeting Jack Dempsey
was not one of my priorities, so I soon lost interest.
Somewhere along the line whilst we were in New York,
my cabin mate,
Atso Vinberg,
the Finnish national, had made contact with some local Finnish
nationals, and had got himself invited to a Finnish Dance in some
remote part of the City. He asked me to go with him. I have no idea
where we went, but we ended up in a rather large hall, full of
people, most of whom spoke Finnish. Atso had not been back to
Finland since some time before the war, and it was interesting to
see that after having had to speak English for the past few years, he
had now lost some of his ability to converse freely in his native
tongue. As he conversed with his friends, his lack of Finnish was
such that I could understand most of what he was saying! However,
we enjoyed the evening, and the venue was so remote from where
the ship was berthed, that we had to waste precious dollars on taxi
fares back to the ship.
That had been Easter Saturday night, and the next day (Easter
Sunday) would be a day off. Once we were up and about on the
Sunday morning, word soon spread that the
Queen Mary,
complete with a full passenger list of British War Brides, would be
docking on the other side of our pier later that morning. The record
of the “Queens” during the war had been awesome. Their record
runs across the Atlantic had been legendary. I had not seen either
of them before, and like most seamen of the day, despite the fact
that we saw large ships on many occasions, the really big ones
always aroused that “special” interest. It had already been said that
their collective ability to transport something like one and a half
million men to the war zones of Africa and Europe had effectively
shortened the length of the war by something like two years.
I was quite excited at the prospect of seeing this mighty liner at
close range. What made the arrival that much more interesting was
that the tug boat men were on strike, and the Captain would have
to berth the ship without the aid of tugs. It was a warm, and sunny
morning, and we decided to make the most of our good fortune,
i.e., that of being “on the spot” to witness this largest of man made
objects that was capable of moving, sailing up the
Hudson River,
and berthing without the aid of tugs, considered to be essential in
the manoeuvring of any ships in close proximity to the docks.
From the stern of our ship, we had a good view down the Hudson
River, so we would have plenty of time to be aware of the
“Mary’s” approach, and so position ourselves in the most
advantageous position to watch the spectacle. We had already
“checked out” the shed, and found that the top deck was reserved
for relatives who were beginning to fill the place up. We would
have to be content with standing on the quayside, and keeping out
of the way of the longshoremen who handled the mooring ropes.
We had seen the Queen Mary approaching slowly up the
river. Quite a few of us had gathered on the end of the pier to
watch her. In our collective wisdom we had already decided upon a
strategy for the Captain to follow. He would be opposite the end of
the pier at precisely high tide. This meant that there would be no
current to affect the ship, one way or another as she turned head on
to the berth, in which position he would be beam on to any
incoming or outgoing tide which could have influenced the ship’s
movement.
Well, he did in fact, wait until high tide before approaching his
berth. Used as we were to watching ships of various sizes berth,
this was a spectacle. We watched the ship, almost dead in the
water, slowly turned ninety degrees to starboard by means of the
propellers. When at last she was close enough to the pier, and in
line with the berth, ropes were brought ashore, and as much as
possible, the mighty ship slowly inched ahead, making as much use
of the ropes that were already on the bollards as possible. When
one rope had served it’s purpose in one position, it was move
further up the quayside to another bollard where it would perform
its steadying task, and another rope would be run out from another
position on the ship. Eventually, as she moved further into her
berth, we could see ropes being sent ashore from the stern. This
now gave the Captain more precise control of the ship as she
moved into position, almost inch by inch until finally, all the head
ropes and the breast ropes were ashore and made fast, and of
course, the same down aft. She had come in completely unaided by
tugs, and under the control of the Captain, and we had not even
heard a scrape of paint.
Oblivious to the nautical drama and the feat of seamanship that was
being played out between their ship and the shore, were several
thousand War Brides and relatives, all now calling out and waving
to each other as the ship approached the pier. For me, and I’m sure,
several other crew members, watching this spectacle was to be one
of those “to remember” sights. Once the
Longshoremen
had
finished their task and it was safe to walk along the quay without
obstructing their work of tying up the ship, we took a walk along
the length of the ship. She was still painted in her wartime
Admiralty Grey. She towered above us, from memory, I think her
forward draught was about thirty nine feet. From close up it was
possible to see in detail, the huge
degaussing wires that were
affixed to her hull. By now, passengers had started disembarking
into the sheds above, to meet up with their husbands and in many
cases, their new in laws. Baggage was being offloaded into the
lower part of the shed, so we had to step carefully. Down at the
stern end, the design of the plates was almost as impressive as the
mighty bow plates which had moments before, towered above us.
Looking along the quay, here was the giant of the oceans, at rest.
THE END
Gordon Sollors
September 16th, 2001
TO RETURN to my Introduction,
"A Look at Life in The British
Merchant Navy in the Forties",
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"”….And Just When We Thought It Was Safe!!!”
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Part One:
SS Empire Abbey,
Part Two:
Our Problems Begin,
Part Three:
Our Problems Continue,
Part Four:
On the Brink of Catastrophe,
Part Five:
Foundation Franklin,
Part Six:
The Third Attempt: Tragedy Strikes
Part Seven:
Halifax at Last and
Part Eight:
New York
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V for Victory,
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